Anglesey Coastal Path - Cemlyn Bay to Church Bay

Possibly the wildest section of the Anglesey Coastal Path is at the north west corner of the island, from Cemlyn Bay, round Carmel Head (Trwyn y Gader) to Church Bay (Porth Swtan). Ali and I spent an enjoyable day walking this in beautiful weather in May this year.

As the walk is about 8 miles and we did not want to walk back to our start point, we took a taxi from Church Bay to Cemlyn Bay. We would recommend the helpful and reasonably priced Camel Cabs. Starting from Cemlyn Bay has the advantage of putting Wylfa Nuclear Power Station behind you and not in your face for half the walk.

Cemlyn Bay is a nature reserve, and popular with bird watchers. It is good to walk along the beach here, which is an impressive shingle bank with a lagoon behind it. However, we found out that you cannot cross the stream at the western end of the beach at anything above half tide, unless you like an early dip! The path heads west from here, undulating from cliff top to remote beaches. Ahead of you lie the Skerries – these are the home to many seals, who may pop up to visit along your walk. We also saw several dolphins close by, and I previously saw a basking shark (don’t worry, huge but harmless) in this area. As you approach Carmel Head, there are two large triangular structures on the hillside that caused us some puzzlement as to their purpose – it turns out that they are markers that were put up in the 1860s to aid navigation in the dangerous waters. As the tide rounds the headland it can produce strong currents and large overflows, which boil around the various rocks and islands.

After Carmel Head the coastline turns south and Holyhead can be seen many miles ahead. The path rises and skirts some impressive sea cliffs. In the next bay is Ynys y Fydlyn, recognized by a natural arch on its northern side. Another 2 miles of sea cliff architecture and turquoise waters brings you to the lovely beach of Church Bay. This is a great place for a final bathe, or refreshments at the tea rooms above.