Walking the Rivals

The Llŷn Peninsula is not normally associated with a good mountain walk, being overshadowed by nearby Snowdonia, but this is a good day out crossing 5 mountains in 2 separate ranges. These mountains are often known as the Rivals, and it is quite possible that you will have them all to yourself. This is not a circular walk, so either 2 vehicles or some method of returning to the start. Map – Lleyn Peninsula East, Explorer 254.

Start at Cae-hir-uchaf (438475) near Clynnog Fawr. Follow the path that heads uphill to the southwest for half a mile until it is possible to break right up grassy slopes to the summit of Bwlch Mawr. This is an excellent viewpoint across to Snowdon and along the beaches to Anglesey. Your next summit is Gyrn Goch – although there are traces of path here and there, the going is generally grassy and it is best to make up your own route by following a leftwards arc. Gyrn Goch is one of my favourite viewpoints, with interest in all directions. In particular you feel that you are perched steeply above the sea, which stretches round the bay to the Isle of Anglesey. It is not far onto the summit of Gyrn Ddu, which involves a bit of scrambling up a ridge to the top. Again, it is worth taking time to appreciate the view. It is most likely that you will not have met another person so far today. A descent down slopes to the south to join a track that leads you down to the village of Llanaelhaearn – there is a small shop and pub for refreshment before the long climb ahead.

After a short walk up the Nefyn road head straight up steep and rocky slopes to Tre’r Ceiri. This is hard work, but you are rewarded by arriving at not just a summit, but at the best iron age hill fort in Wales. The remains of over 150 stone huts are surrounded by an impressive protective wall. As you sit at the summit cairn you realize that a hardy group of people must have inhabited this place.

To reach Yr Eifl, the highest mountain on the Llŷn, either follow the rough path that heads a little left of the summit, or head across heather to the more direct rocky ridge above. Either way, this is another excellent viewpoint. I have frequently seen the mountains of Southern Ireland from this summit, and it is especially good for sunset. Follow the path descending to the south, and then the west, to a car park (353440) near Llithfaen.